11:28:00 AM

So being on a trip with your car, surfboards and everything, riding around and taking photos of fancy beaches, sunsets and surfers may look like the easiest thing to do, but… it has its small inconveniences. Especially when you don’t have a house, often there is no bed where to sleep at night, no bathroom whenever you need it, no kitchen when you’re sick of eating sandwiches under the rain… You’re always on the go, often spending hours and hours in the car and it’s a real challenge to prepare the simplest lunch when outside it’s only wind and rain…  Searching for the best spot for surfing demands a lot of patience and determination, good nerves and excellent navigation system (which we don’t have…) :D Sometimes you just find yourself on a place you’ve never been before, right in the middle of nowhere, not a single person around to ask for directions, and eventually you realize you’re searching for a spot that’s simply not there.

So, right now our mood is slowly becoming more cloudy than sunny, just like the weather. Good waves are still much rare than expected and both of us are a bit disappointed. Either there isn’t enough swell, either there’s too much wind that’s messing the waves, making the ocean look like a bowl of angry smashed potatoes trying to grab the nearest person on the beach and squeeze it to death…  brrrrr…. OK, we know we should definitely have more fun, and we’re doing our best - searching for some skate parks when it doesn’t rain or visiting some little towns around the coast… finally some wind and coldness wouldn’t scare us! Lately, most of the fun is when we’re eating cookies, listening to some Otis Redding and dancing like crazy on the car seats :D However we wouldn’t complain about it, since we also have some great days :) The last sunny afternoon was just wonderful:  the coast looked like magic – covered with the golden glow of the late afternoon sun. The air was fresh, the ocean was much more calm and the water was reflecting the light on a very particular way, so its surface was sparkling in hundreds shades of blue, purple and even red. Families were walking around, enjoying the beauty of the last summer days. Surfers were preparing to enter the water, waiting for the perfect tide level. 

The surf session started just before the sun began its evening journey to the horizon…  Unfortunately the waves were rare and small, often closeouts.  Few surfers left the water, but they stayed around, enchanted by the magic light of the sunset. The view was splendid: the complexity of colors and reflections was tiring our eyes, but it was also attracting us with some strange, inexplicable power… You can never understand nature and its secrets, and the feeling of being there, watching the magical arrival of the night reminded us how big and beautiful is the world and how small and insignificant our worries and troubles could be…

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